Sunday, August 31, 2008

A Funny Plant

This was an interesting plant I discovered in Liberia. If touched the leaves would close up like a sea anemone (pictured left). Watch the short clip below to see me harassing the plant. Sorry to all of you who cannot get video!

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Mercy Mallet

I found this hanging in the O.R. Supervisor's office. She came up with the "Mercy Mallet" title and then topped herself by coming up with the "No Mercy Mallet".


Friday, August 29, 2008

Carlos

Carlos is a great guy hailing from Brazil. He has a PhD in Biomedical Engineering and is running the only real training program on the Mercy Ships for the people of Liberia. Click on the image below to read my story about him.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Artist: Mark Henry

Remember the painting that I bought earlier on in my stay in Liberia (pictured below)? The artist was Mark Henry.


I had the chance to meet him at a large art show that was put on at Mamba Point Hotel by the owner. He was a soft spoken young man who had brought 5 paintings to exhibit. I immediately liked the one below and added it to my collection.


Mark is a hugely talented artist. As an artist in Liberia, and most of Africa, it is extremely difficult to find art supplies. In Liberia, it is impossible. Mark told me that a NYC gallery owner bought one of his paintings once and brought him back paints. Many artists that I spoke to in Malawi used house paint because it was all that was available.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Water for Life

This is another piece that I wrote about the water program in the Tenegar community of Liberia. Click on the picture below to get the full story.


A few more pictures. Here is a well that was dug by Mercy Ships and another NGO in the Tenegar area, but using a hand pump.
The rings that line the sides of the well to the bottom.
A well in the midst of being built.
Paul, in charge of building the wells, explains to visitors the methods used.
A well being built in a small village.
The Mercy Ships Landrover parks in "town square".
A typical mud hut.
The village.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Morocco: Fes Ville Nouvelle & B'sara

The B'sara Stalls are a Fassi specialty. It is a butter-bean and garlic soup served in tiny hole-in-the-wall places in the medina. We found this little gem run by Mohammed and his son. In his stall is a large cauldron of soup that he is continuously stirring and adding water to as it evaporates away. He pours olive oil on top (in the shape of the Moroccan star in mine) with a pinch of cumin and serves you a hunk of freshly baked khoobz (Moroccan bread). It is one of the best things I have eaten and we went back the next day for more at the cost of 4 durhams each (27 pence or 50 cents). Although this picture looks impromptu, Mohammed quickly got his paddle and son to pose for this picture, which I said I would send to him. He was a very soft spoken, gentle man who seemed genuinely happy to see us again the next day. The young Moroccans all eating there swore to us in French that this was the best B'sara stall in Fes...no, in Morocco! We made a visit to Ensemble Artisanal, the state-run arts centre which we read is a good place to get a feel for quality and price. In the busy season (summer is the off season because of the heat) you can see the artists at work in a series of workshops and a no pressure environment. The high pressure sales tactics in the medina can be overwhelming at times and here prices are fixed. We wanted to get a quiet look at all the Moroccan rugs and ended up returning the next day to buy one. Since we had 3 days in Fes, we decided on our last day to take a bus over the Ville Novelle, the newer section of town. It has quite the different feeling without the tiny winding alleyways filled with salesmen in the medinas. The streets are wide and seem desserted until the evening when the temperatures drop and families come out to stroll around in droves. It was a nice feeling, although we were happy to be staying in the ancient part. Here is a stall selling the tajine dishes, a brilliant Moroccan method of cooking.
One of the many fountains in Fes.
We continued wandering markets.
We found the Blue Gate near our riad.
At night the Blue Gate was spectacular.
The night markets are busier in the evening then in the day. The nights are cooler and more people come out in throngs.
The small alleyway to our riad.
Some of the elaborate Moroccan design. More souqs (markets) in the medina (old city).

Monday, August 25, 2008

Morocco: Fes Tanneries

The tanneries in Fes are one of the cities most iconic sights. Long before going, I had seen photographs and postcards with images of what appeared to be a scene out of ancient times. The tanneries that we visited were in the heart of the medina. It isn't possible to get in amongst the tanning pits themselves, but the narrow alleyways are lined with young Moroccans willing to lead you to a great vantage point from the roof of one of the many leather shops for a small fee. I don't think I would have found them otherwise.
The view of the medina from the top of a roof.
Of course you are then given a sales pitch and if there is a sale your guide makes a commission. The odour of the tanneries hits you a short ways to the views and one literally follows their nose. Part of the processing includes pigeon shit and cow urine (for potassium). Colour comes from indigo, saffron, and poppy. Yellow skins lay out to dry in the picture above. The morning is the best time to get there when the pits are awash with vibrant colour. I fell in love with the red. It is claimed that tanning leather in Morocco goes back several millennia, and little has changed since medieval times. Tanners are organised according to ancient guild principles, with workers typically born into the job. Above a worker paints chalk on the fresh skins. Mixed with a chemical it helps break down the meaty bit so that a fine leather can be made. Unfortunately, health and safety principles are similarly old-fashioned and health problems among the workers who are knee-deep in chemicals all day, are not uncommon. The tannery where the raw skin comes (above) is covered in wool and has an ancient, almost biblical, feel. The family that ran this tannery were Berber and had been working it for generations. Donkeys still labour through the narrow street carrying skins to dye pits, which still constructed to traditional designs. Above a man cuts open the skins. The four legs are not slit flat. Heaven knows how they got the animal out. The pile of skins waiting for treatment lay in a heap on the ground.
A view of one tannery from the roof.
Nigel often turns to me at different at different moments in Morocco and asks, "do you feel like you are in a foreign country?" Uh...yes!
The upper level of the tannery.
The shops sell a wonderful array of purses, stools, slippers, and clothes all made from leather. I was eyeing the red slippers, but delayed buying until we were out of the leather district when prices were a 3rd lower.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Summer Camp

On the ship there is a full academy with 5o students ranging from kindergarten to grade 12. During school break on the ship the summer program kicks into high gear. Click on the image below for the story.