Friday, September 05, 2008

Morocco: Ksar Bicha

We stayed at the Ksar Bicha which is accommodation situated just north of the oasis of Merzouga, about 1km from the village.
It was a great place. Simple rooms. Cool tile floors.
There were a series of internal gardens and walkways out of the harsh sun. It was run by a Berber family, and in particular the two brothers. We met one, Ali, while he told us his brother was getting married during our stay. As a result they were taking few guests (many of the wedding guests would be housed there). I cannot say enough about the excellent hosting Ali provided. He is one of these rare people who was taking care of us, his large family (mother, sisters, brothers) who lived next door, and obviously a whole wedding preparation. He had the air of one you would want to follow around and ask questions to regarding culture and the goings on of a Moroccan wedding...always laid back but fully in control. To really put my finger on it, I didn't feel as though he was catering to me, the outside traveller. Instead, I happened to feel we had entered his family and culture while completely being taken care of. Almost as though my importance was appropriately proportioned to who and where I was. It is nice to feel that.
Each room had a name above the door. Mine was Baba. I thought of my Ukrainian grandmother.
It is a spacious spread out place. When you are in the dessert space is not at a premium. There is plenty of it. Everything is spread out. We were thankful to see the pool area. I have forgotten to mention that the farther south we drove the temperatures continued to rise. Our host, Ali, guessed that inside the temperatures were somewhere around 35 while in the sun it was closer to 50. One was so hot even in the shade that all you could do was long to go into the pool. It was hard to get in because it seemed so cold compared to the air. Once in it was perfect. The problem was you were dry within 5 minutes of getting out and baking hot again within 10 minutes. So the cycle began in and out, in and out (with some hot mint tea in between).
There were little refuge areas throughout the place.
...and gardens.
I loved that rugs were randomly placed going up steps and in other places. Rugs are an integral part of life in Morocco. They hang from walls. They cover the floors. I have seen women drag a series of them outside in the shade and sit on them in groups. The roof had beds to sleep on in the open and a great view. We were situated on the edge of the dunes. The closer to the dessert we got the more the buildings were made out of a clay mixed with straw. It seemed to disintegrate in the hot sun quite quickly.

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