Friday, September 12, 2008

Morocco: Äit Benhaddou

We travel to Äit Benhaddou next, 32km from Ouarzazate. Äit Benhaddou is one of the most exotic and best-preserved kasbahs in the entire Atlas region.
This is hardly surprising, since it has had money poured into it as a result of being used for scenes in many films, notably Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth (for which much of the village was rebuilt) and, more recently, Gladiator. The kasbah's fame may endure on film but its population has dwindled in recent years. Thought to have been founded by the Almoravids (11th century) to control the caravan route from Telouet to Ouarzazate, it is now under UNESCO protection.
We pay Dh20 (£1.5 or US$3) to enter and learn that 8 families still live inside.
We stay at Defat Kasbah, a budget place 7km north of Äit Benhaddou.
Another 4km down the tarmac road is the Tamdaght Kasbah (above), yet another Glaoui fortification, topped by storks' nests. Not as spectacular as Äit Benhaddou, but comparatively little visited. Apparently an Italian version of Big Brother was filmed here. Looking down from the top of the hill in Äit Benhaddou, one can view all the roof top terraces.
The broken structure at the top of the hill frames the Kasbah nicely.
We find that down certain alleyways there are sellers of tourist souvenirs waiting to pounce.
We notice a film set that was being built on one side of Äit Benhaddou with the ancient structure as the backdrop. We wander down to check it out and are told it is a film called "Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time", set in Iran or Iraq and starring Jake Gyllenhaal, Gemma Arterton, Ben Kingsley (due out May 28, 2010).
The structure, for being preserved, seems to be in a surprising state of decay.
We glance back as we leave on foot across the dry river bed.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Man, you have a great memory for facts and you must have a very exhautic wardrobe by now.

T (who can barely spell)

Anonymous said...

I just look through our guide book and maps again to remind myself when I am looking at the pictures of the details and history of where we were.

Not really an exhaustive wardrobe. I got red leather slippers and a head covering for the heat. If I lived there I would start dressing in the long flowing robes the Moroccans wore. It is the only thing that makes sense in the heat.