Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Morocco: Fes Ville Nouvelle & B'sara

The B'sara Stalls are a Fassi specialty. It is a butter-bean and garlic soup served in tiny hole-in-the-wall places in the medina. We found this little gem run by Mohammed and his son. In his stall is a large cauldron of soup that he is continuously stirring and adding water to as it evaporates away. He pours olive oil on top (in the shape of the Moroccan star in mine) with a pinch of cumin and serves you a hunk of freshly baked khoobz (Moroccan bread). It is one of the best things I have eaten and we went back the next day for more at the cost of 4 durhams each (27 pence or 50 cents). Although this picture looks impromptu, Mohammed quickly got his paddle and son to pose for this picture, which I said I would send to him. He was a very soft spoken, gentle man who seemed genuinely happy to see us again the next day. The young Moroccans all eating there swore to us in French that this was the best B'sara stall in Fes...no, in Morocco! We made a visit to Ensemble Artisanal, the state-run arts centre which we read is a good place to get a feel for quality and price. In the busy season (summer is the off season because of the heat) you can see the artists at work in a series of workshops and a no pressure environment. The high pressure sales tactics in the medina can be overwhelming at times and here prices are fixed. We wanted to get a quiet look at all the Moroccan rugs and ended up returning the next day to buy one. Since we had 3 days in Fes, we decided on our last day to take a bus over the Ville Novelle, the newer section of town. It has quite the different feeling without the tiny winding alleyways filled with salesmen in the medinas. The streets are wide and seem desserted until the evening when the temperatures drop and families come out to stroll around in droves. It was a nice feeling, although we were happy to be staying in the ancient part. Here is a stall selling the tajine dishes, a brilliant Moroccan method of cooking.
One of the many fountains in Fes.
We continued wandering markets.
We found the Blue Gate near our riad.
At night the Blue Gate was spectacular.
The night markets are busier in the evening then in the day. The nights are cooler and more people come out in throngs.
The small alleyway to our riad.
Some of the elaborate Moroccan design. More souqs (markets) in the medina (old city).

3 comments:

Laura and Ryan said...

So, did you buy a tajine dish? I'm curious about this brilliant Moroccan method of cooking!! Do tell!

Tyrone said...

You should just rename your blog, Morocco: A vegetarians heaven! (and travel sights)...

Love the pictures, seems rustic and romantic with a 'mouth-watering' option at every nook and cranny.

Love it!

Anonymous said...

No, I didn't buy a tajine dish. It is best cooked over coals, although you can use your stove top too. I just think you can cook the same thing in another dish.

Yes, the food was amazing there. It was a vegetarians heaven, although I think Nigel (as a meat-eater) had a lot more interesting options.