Morocco: Fes

The next day we got in car and headed to Fes, the oldest of the imperial cities. In A.D. 789, Idriss I, who founded Morocco's first imperial dynasty, decided that Oualili (Volubilis, the Roman city) was too small and drew up plans for a grand new capital. We had a riad booked in the medina, but the streets are not labelled and we were lost in small winding streets for a few hours. Nigel was excited about Fes, as U2 shot a music video there, and he was left with the impression of another century. At one point we were so lost we started circling the old city and after several random offers of help (which will inevitably be including a package tour for a "good price") we were desperate enough to take one motorcyclist's help. That is our guide, above, in the grey shirt. He obviously did not know where he was taking us and left at at a city gate saying we were just a few minutes away, then wanted 100 durhams, without even having taken us to our riad. We finally felt like we might be close enough and having been told a number of times that where we were staying had no access for cars, we parked as close as we thought we could get and began our search on foot, in the brutal heat. We wound our way down alleyways in the busy market centre. Then, like a beacon of light at the end of a tunnel, Nigel caught sight of a sign that said, "Dar Iman Guest House". We followed an arrow down a tiny alley and knocked on a door. When entering a riad there is a sense of calm, quiet and coolness in the inside courtyard. We always feel relieved and like we have just escaped. I like the idea of an internal courtyard. All the windows in your house look inwards instead of out and you feel like you are in a tranquil garden.

This was the door to our room. Our room. It always feels exhausting the process of unwinding from your travels, trying to decipher Arabic or French signs, and mostly just avoiding the constant offer of guides and merchandise. It always calls for a good meal, we both agree. We enjoyed the family home feel of our dinner in Meknes and opted for Restaurant Zohra. It is tucked away in the backstreets of north of the Kairaouine Mosque.

It is well regarded for its home cooking and warm family welcome. In fact, when we arrived the whole family was sitting in the main room watching television. The 3 side rooms are all set up for eating with lounging cushions and low tables. The meal is long and one feels like lying down and dozing off near the end. Eating restaurant food can get very tiring after awhile and one starts to crave home cooked food. These family run eateries are exactly the kind of food you need: healthy, hearty, and well balanced. The set menu always starts with a vegetable soup and Moroccan bread (or alternatively a salad course which comprises of 3-5 small salad plates: cumin spiked chickpeas, spiced eggplant dip, and more), then the main (I had stewed vegetables on couscous with a pumpkin broth on the side) and Nigel had a tanjine kefta (a meatball stew with an egg cooked in the middle of the hot dish). This is the main family room we walked through (although by the time I took this picture, they had all dispersed). The first course of dessert was fruit. Fresh fruit from Morocco. Sometimes it will come with some dried dates.

Last but not least, mint tea and pastries! On the way out the owner doused us with rose water and made us rub it in faces and necks.