Croatia: Hvar (days 3-4)

We leave the town of Trogir and head down the coast to catch a ferry to the island of Hvar. The coast is rugged and arid with small towns dotted along the coast. And a steep cliff to our right. We get to the town of Drevnic where the much cheaper ferry leaves from. This means we will have to travel the length of the island to get to our accommodation in Hvar Town. We leave Drevnic behind. The point of Hvar Island has a lone lighthouse, although you can see the island from the mainland. Hvar is the most luxurious of the Croatian islands, the sunniest place in the country (and in Europe according to our host who installed solar water heating panels) and along with Dubrovnik, the most popular tourist destination. The long drive along the peaks of the island are beautiful. The 3 main towns of the island, Hvar Town, Starigrad, and Jelsa are all nestled in the south end of the island while the rest of the land mass is largely uncharted. Over the entire island grows wild lavendar, rosemary and heather. We arrive in Hvar town where we are staying in the evening, dump our bags, and walk the 7 minutes into the main old town centre. According to Lonely Planet, Hvar Town, the island's capital, is a place with "swanky hotels, elegant restaurants, trendy bars and clubs, posh yachters and a general sense that, if you care about seeing and being seen this is the place to be." We are told numerous times that both Beyonce and Prince Harry were both recently here. Despite its big reputation it is a beautiful and small seaside town bustling with life and gelato shops.

We stay in a great and inexpensive place called Apartments Komazin run by Andro (and his mom who live downstairs). He is a great businessman, extremely helpful giving us a map of the town, telling us where to eat, what we can do...AND his mom is renowned for her struedel! But on our first day he gives us a tray wit his sister's chocolate mouse cake and two shooters of sweet dinner wine (cherry and lemon).

The picture hanging above the bed is a bit startling, but then this is a very Catholic country.

The next morning we walk the 5 minutes along the town boardwalk to the centre of the old town in the daylight

where the main drag begins.

St. Stephen's Square is the centre of town which used to be an inlet from the bay, but was filled in. It is one of the largest old squares in Dalmatia. At the end of the square is the Cathedral of St. Stephens built in the 16th and 17th centuries at the height of the Dalmation Renaissance.

One unique feature about Hvar Town is that it doesn't have any street names. The town is in a bay with steep hills on one side and the Adriatic Sea on the other side. The only motorized vehicles in town are electric "wagons" which the one person steering stands on to deliver goods on the lowest (and flat) level of the town and boardwalk. Otherwise one is on foot exploring the small alley streets (pictured above). The Fortica sits on top of the hill which we climbed to get some arial views of the town. The fortica/citadel was built on the site of a medieval castle to defend the town from the Turks. The view from the very top. Croatia is not only known for its seafood and gelato, but it is also famed for its pastries (both savoury and sweet). The one on the right is a popular and much larger than it looks. That piece will fill two people. It is a chewy dumpling pastry dough filled with cottage cheese. Basically it tasted like a giant cottage cheese perogy. I am very addicted, but have to convince Nigel of them (as he has to eat the other half and is a sweet pastry lover). This is the view of the sea from our spacious apartment

and Nigel lounging in the warm weather on our balcony. That night there is a big ceremony to celebrate the birthday of St. Stephen the patron saint. There is a choir (that emerges from the church following evening mass), a visiting bishop... traditional costumed dancers... and most amazingly buffet tables set up along the square with free food and wine for a small charge a glass. We really timed this visit right without even realising it.