Saturday, September 22, 2012

Day 5: Italy - Lake Garda to Lido di Josolo

Today we drive from Lake Garda to Lido di Josolo in Italy.
 We get up early and head down to the beach for a run and swim.
We pass a market on our run with cheap produce and head back afterwards.
The water is cool and the day looks like it is going to be another burner. Did you know you could buy 110 SPF sunblock in Canada? I am testing it.
The campsite we are at Fossilata camping grounds which are nice. It backs onto Lake Garda. There are new toilet facilities.
Camping in Europe is totally different to my experience of camping in Canada. In Canada, the more remote and leafy the better. The farther away from other campers you are the better. If you are by a lake or the ocean, great!
In European camping you don't have the luxury of wilderness. The number one thing that I have surmised the Europeans to like is a well equipped and clean toilet block. This isn't a simple Canadian camping toilet. This should have hot showers (and each of these should have its own changing area that doesn't get wet when the shower is on). Secondly, it should be immaculately cleaned regularly. A campsite often advertises based on its toilets and it is a real draw. There should also be a dishes area with hot water, sinks, draining board area, and if it is a really nice site there are usually cloths for wiping up after you are done. The bigger and newer the toilet facility the better. Bidets are an extra plus. Foot washing sinks are also something we have seen at several sites. And of course, washing machines (and dryers if you are really lucky).
Shade is a nice plus, but space doesn't seem as a premium as it does in Canada. Everyone is parked up near each other and there is a banter that goes on between everyone (usually based on the European country your number plates are from). We really fool people with our Netherlands plates when we are obviously not from there. The countries we are seeing camping the most: the Dutch and the Germans, but also Spanish, Swiss, English and some Italians. Each campsite usually has huts you can rent instead of camping and there are people who rent spaces permanently and have their camper always parked. These are a dead giveaway as they usually have planters, lawn ornaments, Christmas lights and more.
Nigel said to me after watching everyone for awhile. "I can see what the experienced campers do. They bring their bathrobe, wear it to the washroom, shower and then change back at their camper. I am going to bring mine next time then nothing gets wet."
It is common to have fresh bread delivered to the campsite in the mornings. A smaller campsite will require you to order what you want the night before but the bigger ones have a shop that you can go to in the early hours to buy it.
We leave the toilets behind and head off for a half day of driving to secure a campsite on the peninsula that overlooks Venice called Lido di Jesolo. We have 4 campsites that our camping pass will give us discounts for. The first two are so dire and in such a hyper tourist area that we immediately leave. They aren't even close to Venice or the boat to it.
The third site is best but will only book a minimum of 2 nights. We settle on the 4th site. We tell ourselves it is only for one night. The best way I can describe it is to compare it to Dirty Dancing and the package camping that is portrayed in that movie. The site is a small village with pool, bars, shop, beach, and anything else you might like on the main strip. The toilet facilities are only okay. Any question or payment you might need to make is at least a 30 minute queue for workers that are tired at the end of the tourist season and won't crack a smile.
There is a stage show in the evening with all the kids singing to pop music (put on by the youth leaders hired to entertain them). They sing "McDonalds. McDonalds. Kentucky Fried Chicken and a Pizza Hut" repetitively to addictive tunes. It is a strange environment and we focus on the fact that we are outrageously close to the boat to Venice that we will catch first thing in the morning.
Back to the photos momentarily…I take random photos on sport mode of the countryside as we drive past to remember the feel of the place. Dry. Very Italian feeling in greenery and architecture.
The beach at our campsite is nice. It is a public beach and you often see non-Italian immigrants hovering near the gate with toys and wears to sell. It reminds me of a resort in a developing country where the real world happens outside the resort's bubble.
We wander around at night and marvel at some of the enormous camper vans. And the day finally ends with a sunset.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Day 4: Swiss Alps & Swiss Chocolate Factory

(Today we drive from the Swiss Alps to Lake Garda in Italy)
 
 Did I mention that the temperature has been dropping rapidly since Germany? We awake frigid with cold in 2 degree Celsius. We have really packed for warmer weather. I am up in the middle of the night and the sky is clear and crisp. I can see every star in the sky. It is breathtaking.
 We collect our fresh buns and croissants and head to the warming hut to eat our breakfast. Strangely the toilets are co-ed, but there are separate rooms for sinks for both men and women. Each sink is in a cubical with a curtain you can draw across. I assume a small washing is what is more the norm here as no one is using the showers. The showers cost a Swiss franc for 4 minutes.
 We set off into the Alps. We have two mountain passes to drive before we head into Northern Italy for the night. We notice everyone has a massive wood store and are very jealous! Our wood store is small in comparison.
 As we begin to climb towards the top of the tree line we notice how clean and fresh the air is. Despite it being cold, we drive with our windows open. Switzerland is known for its cleansing air and has long been a destination for those suffering from chest and lung troubles.
 When we stop there is a distinct sound to the Swiss countryside where we are. We can hear the wind blowing, but also cow bells in random fields all around us. This very much adds to the feeling of being in the land of Heidi.
 Switzerland is an expensive country compared to Germany and the Netherlands. But it is a small country so we don't go crazy here. Our costs are diesel, camping, and a tiny bit of groceries. We still have a lot from Germany.

 I like that Switzerland is independent from Europe. It still has a different currency and without a language of its own it has 4 official languages mostly from the surrounding countries.
 As we climb we are blown away by the scenery. it is by far both of our favourite country yet. We love it here. It reminds me of the Rockies in Canada. In the urban areas it reminds me of what I imagine Monaco to be like. It is a wealthy country and there is no shortage of people driving very fancy sports cars.
 The Swiss are very good at making tunnels.
 We continue to climb well above the tree line to 2437 metres above sea level. I have a strong urge to ski.
 There are a lot of motorists and a great number of them or motorcyclists. Here we see an American granny on the back of a bike. I can't imagine she was less than 85 years old. We were all stopped at the rest stop together.
 Me and the Alps. I put on my Canadian skin and am not feeling the cold that much. It is extremely bright up this high with the sun glaring off of the snow.
 Did I also mention just short of the peak we see many pedal bikes ascending the mountains! A bit lower down below the tree section we see groups of school age children all on mountain bikes heading off into the hills with their classes.
 Swiss top tip: McDonalds has free Wifi. Just park in their parking lot, use their bathroom, and pick up their wifi. You do need a Euro mobile to get onto the Wifi as they text you a code.
 It is so unreal at the top of the Alps that I feel like I am looking at a lunar landscape.
 A chalet marks the top.
 I am trying to scheme how I can come and do an art residency here.
 We begin our descent and the green returns.
 A lush valley.






 Our last stop near the Italy border is in the town of Caslano. There is a Willy Wonka style chocolate factory that you can tour for 3 Swiss Francs. We enter and are immediately given a sample of chocolate at the Alprose Chocolate Factory (see fountain above). I love Swiss chocolate!
 We are able to go into the factory itself.
 Nigel notes the pipes above us are carrying chocolate.
 This woman is quality control. Anything that doesn't make the grade goes into a bin by her side.
 There are may bins with chocolate rejects.
 More bins!
 When we come out of the factory we find a museum with old chocolate vending machines.

Followed by a chocolate store…with amazing deals (and samples on many of the piles).
 But best of all…all those chocolate rejects we saw on the factory floor are put into big bowls for "free degustation". Yes, that is Nigel nosing over to see what there is. yes, we did make ourselves a bit ill by the time we left! Having said that there is not a lot of chocolate you can eat in a small amount of time before you feel ill.
 Our last glimpse of Caslano which near the Italian border is very Italian and now a temperature of 28 degrees Celsius. All the signs are now in Italian and it is the language spoken mostly by the Swiss in this region.
 We reach the Italian border and like all the other European borders there is no one there and we just drive through.
 We head past Milano and towards our goal of Lake Garda (but not after going through at least 3 motorway tolls). The sun is setting as we arrive.
 Above is the town outside the campsite. We are definitely in Italy now.
 We head down to the water for a quick dip as this is the first time it has been warm enough to swim on this summer holiday.
Tomorrow we head to Venice.